Tongdosa: The Buddha Treasure Temple
The Buddha Treasure (Tongdosa) Temple was the first of the Three Jewel Temples we visited. We visited on a moon day so the grounds were filled with devoted practitioners when we arrived, which was during the day’s big service in the main hall. We took the most of the pictures later in the afternoon.
We could hear the chanting from within and see that the temple was packed so we peered over the wall that enclosed the Buddha relics that we weren’t able to circumambulate on this visit. From the porch of a side shrine we remembered those who we knew were ill and had asked for blessings.
(Later that night Ayya Sucitta and I did a more complete chanting and further dedications of merit for them and others after our moon observance ceremonies.)
Once in the main Dhamma hall, we offered three bows and were approached by a temple attendant who poured many small oranges into our monastic bags. My guess is these were from the many offerings that were made during the moon day observance.
We shared them later with the hotel staff where we stayed that night since all the temple overnight visitor spots were full.
When we left the Dhamma hall most of the visitors had departed and we took a quieter look around the now more spacious feeling grounds. I loved how the rooflines mirrored the mountains in the mist.
My impression of Tongdosa was that it was a temple still very active in the service of arousing faith in the wider community and that it had a long lineage of service.
This temple felt the most to me to be still rich with devotion. But of course, I was seeing it through the lens of a moon day, so can only express what arose in my heart from the visit.
Haeinsa: Dhamma Treasure Temple
The next Three Jewel Temple we visited was the Dhamma Treasure (Haeinsa) Temple.
The Dhamma Treasure Temple was most impressive for the preservation of the Korean Tipitika in special buildings designed for optimal ventilation and climate control through vents and building placement in relation to the sun.
The informative signs told of how the carved wood panels were carefully reviewed for errors and corrected with exquisite care.
We weren’t able to get close to the library shelves but a large picture was up on a signboard and better images can be found here.
To reach the buildings holding tipitika we walked through the traditional gates protecting the temple and up many stairs. Some of the stairs were much worn from their many years of service.
The temple also had many prayer lanterns with the names or wishes of many people. Ayya Sucitta thought to have us get one and write the names of those who had asked for shared blessings but we didn’t find a temple attendant where the lanterns were kept so we just brought everyone to mind while looking across the temple grounds to share merits.
My strongest sense of this temple was one of gratitude. I felt such appreciation that the Dhamma was treated with such respect and care and wish to keep it alive in the world. I could also see in the lanterns the joys and sorrows of many and imagined their ability to read and practice the Dhamma was supported by the preservation of the texts here.
Songgwangsa: Sangha Treasure Temple
We visited the Sangha Treasure (Songgwangsa) Temple after the first dusting of snow. It was -10 C so we had the joy of being some of only a few visitors. That day, Ayya Sucitta’s neighbor Soomi joined us and took nearly all the Sangha Treasure photos included in this blog. (But obviously neither of us took this next photo because we are both in it with Ayya Sucitta.)
Perhaps, there being few people made it seem a most inviting place for meditation, but I think the beauty of the land and the many inviting courtyards and trees, as well as, the years and years of Sangha care gave it the sense of a place ideal to sit, stand or walk in mental stillness.
This temple and its many buildings had been damaged and rebuilt many many times in the history of Korea’s wars and fires and even had periods of abandonment. Like the Sangha itself, it kept rebuilding and creating the grounds for monastics and lay people to cultivate the heart/mind. There is even an international zen center here for visitors to stay.
One of the treasures at this temple is highly practical. It is a giant rice container made out of trees, meant to serve thousands of monastics. It reminds me of the ruins found in Sri Lanka of massive rice troughs and again connects these two nations in my mind.
Each of the temples had long drives through some forest, but the Sangha treasure seemed the most secluded and forested. The bridges along the way to cross the river were also beautiful.
Over the many years, the Sangha Treasure Temple has housed many eminent Sangha members. Some of the leading monastics have burial monuments nearby.
The heritage of the great masters’ practice continues as we view the markers of their life passing and ending.
Meanwhile, to keep body and heart warm we stopped at a little shop on the temple grounds and Soomi treated us to hot ginger tea
and a small handmade clay Korean moktak that I intend to keep on my altar through out Winter Retreat as a reminder of this visit to Korean and all the practice inspiration I received here.
Sharing this blog with much gratitude to Soomi for the kindness, photos, gifts and food offerings and the long walk up the mountain early in my visit.
Also sharing with Ayya Sucitta deep appreciation for the generous kindness, support, Dhamma advice and sharing, and monastic friendship.
And to all of you who offered support and well wishes for this journey or simply found a smile or warm heart while viewing the pictures. Glad to be walking the path together.
Thanks for giving us a peek at Korean temples, and your feelings being there. Gratitude! May your travels feed your practice. Happy Winter Solstice!
Warmly,
Holly